Updated: Aug 20, 2019
Our most comprehensive Vitamin C Serum!
The antioxidant benefits of a vitamin C serum can't be overstated. In fact, I think everyone over the age of 10 should probably be using some form of antioxidant serum or topical. It's the backbone of every effective skincare regime. But before you run out and purchase the first Vitamin C serum you can find, you should know not all vitamin C serums are created equal.
First lets talk briefly about the benefits of a vitamin C serum. Vitamin C stimulates collagen production, in fact, it's the only antioxidant with collagen stimulating effects. Collagen is the substance that actually hold the skin cells together and degrades as we age and as we expose our skin to environmental pollutants such as smoking, air pollution and UV rays. Vitamin C both stimulates collagen and protects what collagen fibers you still have.
Vitamin C is also a big time skin brightener and can halt, and in higher concentrations can even reverse the pigmentation commonly called photo aging or photo damage. It also strengthens the skin' barrier and thickens the dermis, speeds up wound healing and reduces inflammation. For this reason, Vitamin C serums pair really well with treatments such as chemical peels and microdermabrasion.
But the most widely known and talked about benefit of Vitamin C is the antioxidant benefits. Antioxidants are free radical scavengers, neutralizing free radicals by donating an electron to stabilize the atom before they can cause the oxidative stress that damages healthy skin cells. Antioxidant serums stop free radical damage. Free radicals cause damaged DNA, freckles, collagen loss and sagging skin .There are a lot of foods that are loaded with antioxidants, namely fruits and vegetables, but those take care of the free radicals within our bodies, unfortunately ingested vitamin C can not deliver adequate l-ascorbic acid to the skin. (1)
In terms of UV exposure causing free radicals to form, it's important to note that sunscreen only blocks 55% of the free radical produced by UV exposure. (2) Top optimize UV protection sunscreen should be combined with antioxidant protection. Since vitamin C ingested does not provide protection in the skin and vitamin C is not naturally produced by the body on it's own, topical Vitamin C serums completely fill this void in protection.
"Vit. C does not absorb UV light but exerts an UV-protective effect by neutralizing free radicals, while this effect is not seen with sunscreens alone. Under laboratory conditions, it has been shown that application of 10% topical Vit. C showed statistical reduction of UVB-induced erythema by 52% and sunburn cell formation by 40-60%." (3)
So now that we know the key benefits of Vitamin C in conjunction sunscreen, lets talk about the things you might not know about Vitamin C serums.
Vitamin C in the form most commonly used in skincare, ascorbic acid, is an unstable water soluble molecule. Because of the lipid concentration in the skin, ascorbic acid skin care products need to contain a fat soluble vitamin like Vitamin E to penetrate the outer layers of skin to be able to provide any benefits. Also exposure to light, heat and air can cause Ascorbic Acid Vitamin C to oxidize at a fast rate. Once oxidized, it does not promote free radical neutralization. Just like an apple will turn brown when exposed to heat light and air, so will your Vitamin C product if not packaged properly.
To stop this oxidation, your Ascorbic Acid Vitamin C serums should be packaged in opaque, airless containers. If your serum changes colors from light to dark or orange, it has been oxidized and should not be used.
While ascorbic acid is the most widely used form of Vitamin C found is cosmetics, lotions and serums it is also the most unstable. Even if packaged properly in amber bottles, there is oxidation that occurs, due it's instability. Studies show Ascorbic Acid Vitamin C products packaged in clear or colored bottles can lose more than half the effectiveness within 30 days. Even those packaged in amber bottles are not airless as they use a dropper to dispense, exposing your product to air every time the cap is removed, further promoting oxidation of the Vitamin C in the serum.
The most stable form of Vitamin C that is currently used in cosmetic serums and lotions is Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbic acid. Because of it's stability, it's also a very expensive ingredient to use, more than 10 times the cost of other forms of vitamin C used in skincare, making it cost prohibitive for many brands. Products that using tetrahexyldecyl ascorbic acid can cost well over $100 for less than an ounce. Because of the stability of the tetrahexldecyl Ascorbate Vitamin C, products using this form do not need to be packaged in opaque containers like the Ascorbic Acid Vitamin C counterparts. Products containing the fat soluble form of tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate do not need to be paired with fat soluble antioxidants like vitamin E. They do need to be contained in airless packaging though. There are other forms of Vitamin C used in skincare in addition to tetrahexldecyl ascorbic acid and l-Ascorbic acid such as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate. BlackBox has found that these forms used in combination ensures the most potent product.
Full AM ingredients below. Infusion AM is designed to be used in the morning and Defiance PM is designed to be used in the evening. Infusion AM pairs well with Tetra C-15, EO HC, Hydra 50, Little Secret Weapon, EO P and our peptide capsules. You can combine them into one product, pumping a small amount into your palm and mixing, or you can apply them on top of each other. A sample morning routine might be a short scrub with 6 Minute Miracle, a thorough wash with Frost Face Wash and application of Infusion AM. You could add an extra pump of Radiance AX, our facial moisturizer from the anti-aging line, or Hydra 50 for more moisture. Infusion AM should not be used with Defiance PM or Revive GX or X-Out as the retinol and acids in these products can cause ingredients to degrade.
If you are using products from different skincare lines not associated with BlackBox Cosmetics, Vitamin C should not be combined with copper in serums or applied at the same time. Both are unstable molecules and will cancel out the effects of the other. Copper is beneficial for the skin, but should be separated in terms of application. You could apply a vitamin C serum in the AM and a copper or peptide product in the PM. The peptides in Little Secret Weapon, Collagen LT and our Peptide capsules are not copper peptides and so Infusion AM can be used at the same time as any of our peptide products.
Infusion AM Ingredients:
Aloe barbadensis (Organic Aloe Vera) Juice, Punica Granatum. L. (Organic Pomegranate) Distillate, Pure Vegetable Glycerin, Emulsifying Wax, Rosa mosqueta (Rosehip Seed Oil), Euterpe oleracea (Acai Berry) extract, Lycium Barbarum (Goji) FruitExtract, Morinda citrifolia (Organic Noni) Fruit Extract, Vanccinum angustifoilium (Wild Blueberry) Fruit Extract, Mangosteen(Garcinia Mangostana L.) Fruit Extract, Tocopherol (Vit. E), Butylene Glycol, Hydroxypropyltrimonium (Honeyquat), Ascorbyl Palmitate (Vit. C Ester), Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (Vit. C Ester), Dimethylaminoethanol (DMAE), Limnanthes alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Citrus auranium dulcis (Organic Orange) Fruit Extract, Aphanizomenon flos aquae(Bluegreen Algae) Estract, Citrus medica limonum (Organic Lemon) Extract, L-Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C), Centella asiatica (gotukola), CoQ10 (Coenzyme Q10), Microalgae Nannochloropsis Oculata (Algae Extract), Vaccinium myrtillus (Organic Bilberry)Extract, Beta Carotene (Pro Vit. A), Camellia sinensis (Green Tea EGCG(90%), Silybum marianum L Gaertn (Milk Thistle/Silymarin), Alpha Lipoic Acid/Thioctic Acid, Saccharomyces cerevisiae (Beta 1- 3 Glucan Yeast), Saccharum officinarum (OrganicSugar Cane) Extract, Acer saccharinum (Organic Sugar Maple) Extract, Salix nigra (Willow bark) Extract, d-Calcium Pantothenate (Panthenol Vit. B5), L-Arginine, Niacinamide (Vit. B3), Retinol Palmitate (Vit. A), Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide- NAD (Vit. B3), Olea europaea (Olive Leaf) Extract, Gingko Biloba (Gingko Leaf) Extract, Aspalathus linearis (Rooibos) Extract, Camellia sinensis (White Tea) Extract, Rosmarinus officinalis (Rosemary) Oleoresin, Azadirachta indica (Neem)Oil, Daucus carota (Carrot) Oil, Lecithin, Xanthan Gum (Polysaccharide gum), Tetrasodium EDTA, Citric Acid, essential fragrant oils.
Infusion AM by BlackBox takes the standard Vitamin C serum and knocks it out of the park. It's a super antioxidant lotion that includes 3 forms of Vitamin C including tetrahexldecyl ascorbate, ascorbic acid and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate. It is also fully loaded with organic botanical antioxidants including Rosehip, Acai berry, noni fruit, wild blueberry, garcinia mangostana, orange, gotukola, green tea, willow bark, olive leaf, ginko biloba, roobios, white tea and rosemary. It also contains niacinamide which studies show boosts the effects of the Vitamin C.Infusion AM is also packaged in airless containers.